Is Streetwear Dead?
In 2019, the late fashion designer and street wear pioneer, Virgil Abloh sparked a massive debate when he stated that streetwear was heading towards extinction. During an interview with Dazed magazine, Abloh was asked, “What do you think will happen to the idea of streetwear in the 2020s?” Abloh’s response: “Wow. I would definitely say it’s gonna die, you know? Like, its time will be up. In my mind, how many more t-shirts can we own, how many more hoodies, how many sneakers? I think that fashion is gonna go away from buying a box fresh something; it’ll be like, hey I’m gonna go into my archive.”
Controversy aside, Abloh’s statements hold some truth. Fast forward to three years later, and archival fashion has definitely made its way to the forefront. People are no longer wowed by the freshest pairs of sneakers, but are building their closets with archives and 1 of 1s. Consumers are looking forward to discovering smaller brands in an attempt to support businesses they resonate with. We discussed this phenomenon with a few creatives who are making their mark in streetwear today.
What does streetwear mean to you?
Fortunately, streetwear has no fixed definition. According to Philadelphia native and creative director of Better View, Brandon Martel says, “Streetwear to me means self expression. It is as simple as that. There is something for everybody.”
When David Minor, owner and creative director of Nyrva, thinks about streetwear - “I think about a everyday fly ass look, basically expressing yourself and your style whether it’s thrifted clothes, clothes from the mall or a piece off the runway. It’s no set definition to it, it’s what you make it.” To Atlanta based celebrity wardrobe stylist, Rohan Galbraith Jr., “Streetwear is a lifestyle. It is an embodiment of who you are. It’s an expression of your personality and sense of style.”
David touches on a valid point bringing us back to the origins and the history of streetwear. It isn’t necessarily about the pieces one decides to wear, but the significance and community behind it. Yes it is about self expression but also inclusivity in fashion.
What was your first introduction to streetwear?
It is fascinating to see all the sub-niches that came out of streetwear. There is something out there for everyone. Afro-Japanese designer and musician Splurge explains his first introduction to streetwear: “It was definitely seeing Taz Arnold express himself during the hype beast era around 2008-2009. When everything was super structured and boxy - Slowbucks, Sales R Us, all those gimmicky pop-culture brands.”
“I knew about streetwear my whole entire life growing up,” says Rohan,“Seeing the styles my mother wore from bamboo earrings, coogi sweaters, evisu jeans, baby phat, juicy couture, and other popular streetwear brands of the 2000s. It played a huge part in my life.”
Originally, streetwear was established for those who had no place in the fashion industry. Streetwear was “too urban” for high fashion, and it took some time for fashion houses to take it seriously. Now we see streetwear in almost every aspect of fashion. Hoodies and graphic tees have taken over runways becoming submerged in couture and lux spaces. Streetwear is no longer its own genre, but has become more of a lifestyle.
Do you think streetwear has lived up to its origins, or has the mission changed?
“Yes, of course! Because everyone’s definition is different,” says David. The beauty of streetwear is that it is ever changing. It will never have just one mission because it depends on everyone’s unique view of the world. According to Splurge, “it depends on how you look at it. The world comes out of you, you don’t come into this world. Streetwear will always live up to its potential because in my world I get to express myself in that avenue with no boundaries. And it still has given me and my friends a lane to create.”
However, there is no denying that some aspects of streetwear has lost its purpose, or in other words gotten into the wrong hands. Rohan emphasizes how, “it [streetwear] has been infiltrated by outsiders and slightly morphed into something it’s not. It went from being a closed culture meant for Black minorities to something mainstream and profited off of by white spaces and capitalism. The same people who judged us for these styles in the pasts are the ones wanting to recreate and relive certain areas where streetwear was very influential.”
Where do you think streetwear as a whole is headed? Any thoughts on what the future of it may look like?
The greatest takeaway from this debate is the fact that streetwear will never be dead as long as we keep creating. Brandon sums it up well: “The future of fashion is in good hands in my opinion, although right now it may seem saturated due to the brand boom. There are a lot of creatives single-handedly and collaboratively expanding its reach. A prime example being JFG’s collaboration with New Balance or Rhuigi’s with Bally, it is refreshing to say the least. I don’t believe streetwear is dead. I feel like we will continue to see many more peaks in this style of fashion - Virgil’s Streetwear crossover into high fashion was only the beginning. The door is wide open.”
David shares, “It is headed in the right direction. We have so many new creatives, and with the internet today you have access to all the new trends to stay up to date with what’s hot!”
When asked about his opinion on the future of fashion, Splurge references his own brand. “Honestly — TPP. I want it all.”
There is so much significance in that answer. Streetwear will never die as long as we have new creatives and new brands telling their stories. With each brand births a new community to build and cater to. This signifies the importance of platforms like ours to shed light on the new trends and fashion brands making waves in streetwear and fashion, and an important message to all to never stop creating. Your content will impact someone especially in streetwear.